Christina Waters

The name says it all - Phenom.

A too-good-to-be-only-$4.99 wine.

Phenom - 2006 Napa Valley Syrah (at least that’s what it says on the label). Deep purple black in hue, this “isolated 400 case production” is loaded with tannins, dark berries and a cedar finish.

That phrase – “isolated 400 case production” – leads one to suspect that this ‘phenomenal’ bargain ($4.99!) is a clear case of surplus grapes looking for a good home. We, you and I dear reader, are the beneficiaries of nature’s glut. Even for a hefty alcohol wine (14.7%) it shows no vapidity. The structure hangs tight and offers enough fruit, spice and yes, even grip, to partner whatever you’ve got going on. Except maybe scallops.

Thank you Wally Goldfrank (one discerning bargain-hunter) for this outstanding tip. At Shoppers Corner.

I did say $4.99 a bottle. The deal of this, or any other recession.

Get on over to Shoppers and load up! I may have left you a few bottles….

In the world of Randall Grahm, change is the only constant. So it comes as no surprise that the winemaker’s Cellar Door Cafe now offers 3-course, prix fixe family-style dinners - Wed-Sun for $28, excluding tax and tip. This turns out to be a hedonistic bargain when you add your choice of wine - from the huge house of Bonny Doon Vineyard, Ca’ del Solo and other assorted Doon esoterica.

Grahm was ga-ga over the recent installation of a sculptural spaceship — quoting the house “Cigare” logo — created in layers of distressed metals by Michael Leeds.

More Captain Nemo than Starship Enterprise, the handsome artwork looms high over the far tasting room bar (see above). Another reason to spend some time sipping, dining and considering the meaning of it all.

Bonny Doon Vineyard Tasting Room & Cellar Door Cafe - all at the very busy corner of Ingalls & Swift. (328 Ingalls St., Santa Cruz – 831/425-4518)

Open Wed-Sun noon – 9pm; Mon & Tues noon – 5:30pm

As the Doon Turns: The undulant evolution of the winery’s mission and focus has become as regular as the tides, and so it was a given that Randall Grahm would transform his tasting room once again.

Unveiled in a cascade of preview dinners over the past week, the Cellar Door Cafe — complete with hot new chef, new ambience and an edgy Euro dining concept — is now available as a venue for Bonny Doon Vineyard’s wines. Softening Mark Primack’s industrial sleek with new couches, wall treatment and attractive staffers, the tasting room-in-progress now showcases a Wednesday through Sunday sit-down, prix fixe dinner created from the ultra-freshest, organic, seasonal fare by Charlie Parker.

A David “Iron Chef” Kinch protegé, Parker (at left in white shirt) sous cheffed at Kinch’s two-star Manresa, as well as Napa’s Ubuntu. He just returned from three months cooking in the Michelin-starred kitchens of Copenhagen’s Noma. Parker — as I learned a few nights ago at a 5-course press dinner in the cavernous tasting room — can conceptualize in synch with Grahm’s oenological galaxy. The menu that evening, starting with suzuki crudo , followed by sensuous confit of pork belly and smoked salmon roe, continued on into a rare beef panzanella heightened by pea shoots, favas, asparagus and garlic gremolata. A dessert of calavados-splashed almond cake (more…)

Gabriella Café and Pie Ranch team up on June 7 for a mouth-watering “Grow a Farmer” Fundraising Dinner.

You know I’m wild about the cooking of Gabriella Cafe chef Brad Briske. You know I adore all things organic, AND that includes the farmers who grow them. I’m totally behind this chance to taste Briske’s cooking at one of our top local ranches.

For more than 40 years, the Apprenticeship program at UC Santa Cruz has been turning out farmers and gardeners dedicated to market fresh organics while caring for the land. On Sunday, June 7, Gabriella Café and Pie Ranch will team up to support the program with a “Grow a Farmer” benefit dinner at Pie Ranch, located near Año Nuevo State Reserve.

“The apprenticeship program is essential to future of organic food and agriculture. It’s a pleasure and a gift to work with (more…)

You don’t have to be old enough to remember William Shatner before he was the Priceline Negotiator to love the new Star Trek cine-blitz. I admit to being twice trekkie - loved the original in reruns, and adored the Jean-Luc Picard “Next Generation” team - loved them to bits! I also loved this movie.

In the new installment - lightyears better than those latex-intensive Lucas flix - the spirit of Kirk and Spock materializes brilliantly in the young, hot-to-the-max form of Chris Pine (Kirk) and Zachary Quinto (Spock). Director J.J. Abrams knew enough not to destroy one of the great love/hate affairs of all tv/film - the push-pull between the hot, brash young space captain and the Vulcan genius given existential angst by his human genes. And without sacrificing anything in the way of opulent, futuristic effects — the malevolent Romulan colony is fabulously imagined, and the vintage Starship Enterprise is shown off to nostalgic fare-thee-well — the film keeps its focus tight on the two principals, their backstories and the romp through space as they acquire their mythic sidekicks.

“Dammit Jim — I’m a doctor, not an engineer.” It’s a total hoot to hear the classic McCoy line (more…)

Why is this man standing in front of a wall of 5 gallon carboys filled with vintage 2007 grenache, syrah and assorted other Rhônesque grapes?

Find out tomorrow when I dish about the new Cellar Door dinners - ready to unfold for the discerning public on Saturday, May 16 inside the Bonny Doon Vineyard tasting room.

I’ll keep this simple. Corralitos - gorgeous countryside, wines dripping with terroir.

Wines from Windy Oaks (where you will probably get to sample the new Estate Terra Narro), Alfaro, Nicholson and Pleasant Valley. Vineyards, winemakers, tastes, tours, cheese and sausages, commemorative wine glass - all for $35 (in advance - at the website; $40 day of the event).

May 9, Noon to 5pm - Saturday!

Freedom Blvd to Corralitos and then follow the signs. Better yet, download a map at the website.

The kitchen of Chris Avila just continues to provide comfort to serious foodies and adventurous winos. Take the other evening, for example. Armed with a glass of four-dimensional Sangiovese, I feasted on one of those amazing scallops appetizers Soif does so well.

The trio of scallops - always perfectly golden crisp exterior with buttery tender interior - arrived on a bed of crisp baby enoki mushrooms, strewn on a rich cushion of potato risotto. A moat of transparent parsley oil circled the shellfish.

See what I mean?

Soif.

Pissaladiere, ratatouille, pistou - just some of the luscious flavors of Spring in the French Countryside. They are yours for lunch now at Au Midi in Aptos.

Michel and Muriel Loubiére emailed to tell me that their charming bistro is now open from Wednesday to Saturday for lunch (11:30-2) and dinner (5:30 - 9pm) - Sunday for dinner only.

To join Muriel’s splendid authentic French cuisine you can now choose from the entire line of premium wines from Windy Oaks Estate, recently added to the Au Midi wine list.

There is so little genuine, intimate handmade food still available in Santa Cruz area restaurants….treat yourself to the real thing at Au Midi (a bit out-of-the-way, tucked behind the Aptos Cinema).

Au Midi Restaurant & Bistrot
Aptos Village Square
7960 Soquel Drive, Suite E
Aptos, CA 95003

831.685.2600